THE MIDDLE AGES - PART 1: A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY...

The huge Roman Empire is divided in 395 AD, when the emperor Theodosius I moves the capital from Rome to Constantinople, so starting the Eastern Roman Empire, also called the Byzantine Empire (which lasts up to 1453, when the city is definitely conquered by the Turks). Just a few years later, the Western Roman Empire starts falling to pieces under the blows of the first barbarian invasions: in 451 Attila "Flagellum Dei", the king of the Huns, attacks the German populations at the border of the Empire, enters Italy, conquers the city of Aquileia and destroys Veneto (452). The Hsiung Nu -the population the Romans called the Huns- came from the far away Mongolian steppes, situated in the north of China, and were extremely ferocious nomadic shepherds. Used to the very difficult climatic conditions of their region, they had developed quick and cruel war techniques. Besides their ability in riding horses, they were very agile in the use of the bow: they were expert shooters and resorted to very effective guerilla techniques with sudden attacks followed by quick retreats and sudden new attacks from a distance. But they were only the first ones...

In 455, with the first sack of Rome by Gaiseric, king of the Vandals, the remaining of the Roman political structure -already undermined by excesses and moral corruption- receives the mortal blow. In 476 Odoacer, king of the Heruli, removes the last Roman emperor (Romulus Augustulus) from his office, and in this way decides the end of the Western Roman Empire.

FROM THE "PRIVILEGE" OF HUNGER TO THE "LUXURY" OF THIRST

So the country starts a dark period of famines and epidemics, caused by distruction of cultivations and sacks of cities and villages. During these early years, the relationship with food becomes unstable and, somehow, "morbid". According to the French medievalist Leo Moulin, this historical moment is characterized by "the obsession of food, the importance of eating and, on the contrary, the sufferings (as well as the merits) caused by alimentary mortifications". So not only food but also hunger becomes the "object of privilege" (Massimo Montanari).

Because of the general political and social confusion, in the territory the Romans had previously occupied wine production starts diminishing. For this reason, especially in early Middle Ages, viticulture development remains in the hands of convents, which lately become real wine-centers by means of monks who, since the beginning, had dedicated themselves to the noble art of wine-making. As a matter of fact, wine was an indispensable element during the mass as it was the liturgical symbol of Christ's blood. This contributes towards remarkable viticulture expansion, also in those areas where it is not really part of local traditions. Monastic centers become nucleuses essential for the preservation of many activities, both cultural and economic, of the nearby villages. Vine cultivation is only one of many aspects and works developed and maintaind in monasteries. Very interesting documents on this subject come from Vallombrosa monastery, in Tuscany, where -also thanks to an isolated and protected position- monks developed and improved vine cultivation techniques.

Medieval wine was divided into three products. The first -real "wine"- came from a light squeezing which produced a natural and full-bodied liquid; it was the best product and only the rich could afford it. The second squeezing, more powerful, produced a lower-quality juice called "vinello" (light wine), probably used by the clergy. Finally, the third squeezing produced an almost-wine called "acquerello" (water-wine), used by the poor and obtained adding water to marc swill. In order to strengthen the flavours, medieval wine was repeatedly "seasoned" -as it was in the past- with herbs, spices, honey and absinth. While in order to preserve it up to three or four years, wine was boiled, otherwise it would loose three-quarters of its quality.

After the year one thousand, the early strict alimentary regime regulating meals inside monasteries is subject to a radical change: works to be performed multiply, patrimony to be managed increases -above all because of huge testamentary bequests-, estates grow and all this alienates monks from the dimension of a simple and frugal life. Wine -but above all "good" wine- becomes more and more synonym of richness and prestige, and for some ecclesiastical orders excelling in the production of high-quality wine is almost a reason for life. Benedictines, diffused in the whole of Europe, become famous for their wines and for consumption -not so moderate- they make of it.

The clerical power of the "vermillion drink" soon becomes the satirical target of lower classes, which are obliged to abstain from it. From their usual sharp popular jests, here we have an "alcoholic" version of "Our Father", traslated from Latin:

"Father Bacchus who art in tankards,

hallowed be thy harvest,

thy fermentation time come,

give us this day our daily good wine,

offer us great drinks as we will offer them to others,

and lead us into your aromatic temptations,

but deliver us from water."

Still after the year one thousand, beside ecclesiastical and high-class viticulture, we find a new form of activity, viticulture promoted by the rising mercantile middle-class. They start considering wine production and trade as a new way of getting reliable and fruitful profits. Before, wine was a product just destined to alimentation and liturgical uses. Now, it is an article in great demand, exchange money and a source of wealth for producers and merchants.

(To be continued)

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